Bhutan’s history is recounted in a way that the line between myth and fact is blurred. The distinction does not seem to bother anyone. Why not follow your own winter’s tale and explore the wonderful local folklore (or in your guide’s eyes simply its history), from the naga spirits in the soil to the yeti roaming the snow-capped mountain peaks.
Besides its epithet as the happiest place on Earth, Bhutan is known as the Land of the Thunder Dragon for the storms that sweep through its mountains. Gangkhar Puensum stands as one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world, closed to mountaineers along with all other peaks higher than 6,000 meters since 1994 for spiritual beliefs. Indeed, Bhutan saw the impact of climbing on neighbouring countries and decided to leave its own pristine peaks to the holy spirits … and perhaps the odd yeti. While some attribute sightings of the yeti to the misidentification of a bear, the Bhutanese know better and who are we to argue.
While you can’t climb the mountains, no visit to Bhutan is complete without a hike to Paro Taktsang, or Tiger’s Nest Monastery. According to the Namthar of the Lhakhang, it is believed that Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) flew to this location from Singye Dzong in the 8th century on the back of his consort, who had changed herself into a tigress, introducing Buddhism to Bhutan. This place was consecrated to tame the Tiger demon. The winter months offer the calmest trails and best views of the monastery and the clear skies behind it. The trail passes through pine forests and offers glimpses of prayer flags fluttering in the cold breeze, making it a spiritual journey as well as a physical one.
NAGA SPIRITS
Naga (Sanskrit for snakes) live in the water and earth. If you spoil the environment, the naga will exact revenge so before you build a house, you must perform a ceremony to ask permission for rearranging the earth, accommodating them in their own little naga house where you must leave offerings. If you respect the earth, nature, and all sentient beings that share it, you generate positive karma and the naga may bestow a gem.
THUNDERBOLTS AND TAKINS
Drukpa Kunley (1455 to 1570) was an enlightened Buddhist master known as the “Divine Madman”, who used his phallus as a “flaming thunderbolt” to tame a number of demons and demonesses that were tormenting the Bhutanese people. One such demoness was Dochula, named for the high mountain pass where she came from, who was subdued on the mound where the Chime Lhakhang stupa was built in the late 15th century by his cousin brother, Lam Ngawang Choejey. Today, couples come from all over the world seeking fertility blessings and there is an entire photo album of smiling babies, testifying to the happy result that comes from circumambulating the temple with a phallus on your back.
Legend has it that when Drukpa Kunley was challenged to prove his powers, he asked for a feast and devoured a whole cow and a whole goat. He merged their bones to form the takin, a crazy looking creature that migrates from the upper pastures to more forested areas in winter. You can also catch them at the Motithang Takin Preserve outside Thimphu.
